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Friday Recipe
Posted by Stephen Green  ·   6 October 2005

There are a few classic dishes I've never made, because they're just too easy to find at restaurants. The problem with living in Colorado Springs is finding real Italian - you know, a place where you can order a chicken parmigiana and get something better than a dried-out chicken breast covered in canned marinara and low-fat mozzarella. So last week I learned how to make...

A Damn Fine Chicken Parmigiana

Tyler Florence did this one on Food TV a while back, but I changed it up some. Also, I've made the directions a little more explicit, for people like me who don't manage kitchen time very well.

You'll need:

2 skinless chicken breasts
Extra virgin olive oil (we almost never measure our olive oil, so just do like us and keep a gallon tin on hand at all times)
2 cloves of garlic, minced or smashed
1 fresh bay leaf
1/2 bunch of basil leaves, chopped or torn
A white onion, chopped
1 large can (28 oz) of whole tomatoes
1 tablespoon Chianti
1/4 cup flour
1 egg
1 cup plain breadcrumbs (the stuff in the cardboard can is fine)
1 small ball of fresh mozzarella, or 2 small ones (call it 1/4 pound or so)
A wedge of Parmigianino Reggiano (the undisputed King of Cheeses)
6 oz spaghetti

This first step will make your whole house smell like you've been cooking something wonderful all day, but it only takes five minutes. Coat the bottom of a small saucepan with olive oil and bring it up to medium heat. While it's coming up to temp, roll up your sleeves and hand-crush the tomatoes in a colander. Give'em a good rinse, and leave them be. Now that the oil is hot, drop in the bay leaf, onion, and garlic. Stir for four minutes or so, then add the tomatoes.

Reduce to medium-low heat and let the sauce simmer for 12-15 minutes, stirring occasionally (and tasting often). Pour the Chianti in there, too, and season with salt and pepper.

Get the oven preheating to 450, and cover the sauce on low heat. Or on no heat, if you're moving slowly through these steps. You can always bring it back to a simmer later.

Take out two plates and a small bowl. Cover one plate with the flour, and season it thoroughly with salt and pepper. Put the egg in the bowl and whip it lightly. Next to that, cover the second plate with your breadcrumbs.

Now comes the fun part: Abusing dead animals!

Place the chicken breasts between two sheets of wax paper, and pound the little bastards until they're 1/3-inch thick. And here's a tip learned the hard way: Put the smooth side of the chicken facing up and use the smooth side of the mallet. Much less messy that way.

Put a large pot full of water on the stove to boil.

Place the chicken breasts next to the plate of flour, next to bowl of egg, next to the plate of bread crumbs, next to the stovetop. On the stovetop, take your best 8-inch, oven-safe skillet and bring 2 more tablespoons of olive oil up to medium heat.

Roll up your sleeves if you haven't already, and remove your watch and rings, too. Take the first chicken breast and lightly coat it in the flour. Dip it in the egg and let the excess drip off. Take the mess you've made and cover it in breadcrumbs. Throw it in the skillet and repeat with the second chicken breast. Fry them for no more than 3.5 minutes on each side. Remove from heat, but otherwise leave it be.

Here's where we find out if your skillet really is oven-safe.

Ladle the simmering sauce (very, very generously) on top of the chicken, right there in the pan. Tear the mozzarella and portion it out on top of the sauce. Now take your parm-reg and your best grater, and cover - and I mean cover - the whole mess with parm. If you use less than three ounces, you don't get any wine with dinner.

Put the pan in the oven and bake it at 450 for 10-12 minutes. If you keep an eye on the cheese, you'll know when it's done. As soon as the chicken is in the oven, add the spaghetti to the boiling water, along with a pinch of salt.

Strain the pasta after about nine minutes, by which time the chicken is almost ready to go.

Here's the really tough part. Do you serve the pasta on the chicken, under the chicken, or with a little olive oil next to the chicken? The choice is yours.

Oh, and that Chianti you opened just to get a tablespoon? Pour a glass, have a sip, and serve dinner already.

Serves two people who love their cheese, but hate dried-out chicken.

Comments

Tips for breading meat: 1) rip off a couple of sheets of foil or wax paper for the flour and bread crumbs -- when you're done, just crumple them up and throw them away. I've spent many an evening trying to chip off the impermeable substance that is created when flour, egg, and bread crumbs combine and are then left to solidify. 2) Use one hand for the flour and the egg, and the other for the bread crumbs -- one "wet" hand, one "dry" (or "drier" anyway) hand. It helps minimize the amount of goo you get on your fingers. 3) Adding grated parmesan to the bread crumbs is very nice.

Wish I could get my kids to eat this. I'm sure they'll come around eventually, but they're still in the uber-picky stage.

Posted by: Joan at October 7, 2005 12:53 AM

Joan,

I don't have any idea how old your kids are, but after about the age of 8 they should LOVE this meal. It's tasty, it's breaded, it's not particularly good for them, it's messy, and it's covered in cheese. What's not to love?

Stephen,

Thanks for the ideas for sauce. I'll definitely try this out this weekend. I'm hungry just thinking about it.

Posted by: A fine scotch at October 7, 2005 07:46 AM

When pounding meet, I use a 1 gal. capacity freezer storage bag. I cut the sides so it's only attached at the bottom. The thick plastic will stand up to a lot of pounding.

When actually pounding the meeet, don't pound straight down, but down and out. This will give you a more even result. (A little spray of water on the bag will make this easier.)

Posted by: fred at October 7, 2005 08:29 AM

Sounds tasty! My whole family hates dried-out chicken, and I haven't cooked chicken breast for years because, as my young'un said, "It's not all slobbery [like drum sticks]."

I'll have to get an oven-safe skillet and a mallet. Will this recipe work for 4 chicken breasts in a larger skillet?

Posted by: FL Mom at October 7, 2005 08:34 AM

Good article and good comments.

I'll add mine.

My oven must be hotter than yours, 400 degrees is hot enough and 10 minutes in there is just right.

I of course, use only Chianti Classico Riserva, not "just" Chianti..

Cheese....I must have been a mouse in my previous life.

Papa Ray
West Texas
USA

Posted by: Papa Ray at October 7, 2005 09:53 AM

Flick some water on the meat, and whatever plastic or paper you are useing when you pund out the meat. It makes a huge, huge difference.

Posted by: DrObviousSo at October 7, 2005 10:07 AM

This post regarding the Chicken Parmigiana is making me seriously hungry. I might suggest:

1. I find the breading is less likely to seperate if I let the chicken rest for 15 to 30 minutes after breading;
2. Finish the tomato sauce with a couple of tablespoons of butter. The butter improves flavor, mouth feel, and appearance;
3. Other wines work well in a tomato sauce. I like using Marsala or Sherry and I use more wine than is recommended in your recipe;
4. I find the "Pomi" brand of canned tomatoes (product of Italy) makes a better sauce than domestic varieties. Pomi is also salt free, so for those with blood pressure issues it is an improvement;
5. Lightly coating the chicken with oil before pounding seems to make it less likely to tear;
6. If you prefer a less rustic consistency to the sauce, run it through a blender, food processor, food mill or strainer before pouring over chicken; and
7. If you like your Parmigiana with a little more bite, add red chili flakes to the sauteing onions and garlic.

Buzz

Posted by: Buzz at October 7, 2005 10:43 AM

Yum, yum. I would roll my sleeves up before I touched the chicken, but those are great directions and Joan's breading tip is really nice. I'll be making the Coq au Vin for Sunday and will try and make this one next Wed.

Posted by: Debra at October 7, 2005 10:43 AM

Lovely recipe, but since the first complaint was lack of decent italian restaraunts, have you tried Biaggi's?
http://www.biaggis.com/coloradosprings.htm

I haven't been into the Springs outlet, but ate at the original in Bloomington, IL and the linguinni with clams was better than anything I've had since leaving Jersey. It is a chain that avoids tier one cities so it can position itself as the top of the food chain. In other words, it sets the bar high and then must meet the challenge.

Posted by: Mark Reardon at October 7, 2005 11:09 AM

When's the cookbook being published? Perusing it with a martini in hand seems a good way to spend some time.

Posted by: Carl S. at October 7, 2005 11:52 AM

How do you rinse smashed tomatoes, without either diluting the smashed-up-goop, or washing it away?

Or do you mean rinse them BEFORE hand-crushing?

Posted by: Sigivald at October 7, 2005 11:53 AM

Warning: I’m going straight to the gutter here. I just can’t resist...

Fred’s post would actually be just as accurate and helpful as a “self love” how-to tip.

Posted by: jmaster at October 7, 2005 12:27 PM

Well I tried your Coq Au Vin last week and got the highest compliment ny lady ever gives (better than her version.)So I guess I'll have to try this one this weekend

Posted by: RS at October 7, 2005 12:55 PM

Papa-Ray...Stephens oven temp is different from yours because he is preparing this delicacy at a significantly higher elevation. What time is dinner Stephen?

-SpinDaddy

Posted by: SpinDaddy at October 7, 2005 01:04 PM

Seems like a lot of trouble. Can't I just nuke a couple of Swanson's Chicken Parmigiana dinners?

Posted by: Robert at October 7, 2005 02:07 PM

Look, I just can't cook! But in the Springs, you can get good Italian -- just go to Paravicini on W. Colorado. I swear by it.

Posted by: AggravatedDocSurg at October 7, 2005 02:14 PM

Lets cut the crap-

get a loaf of brioche,cut it into cubes,and let it get stale,then get some frozen beef bone marrow-
put both in a food processor and make into crumbs-

roll a "prime" Angus fillet in the crumbs,and grill over hardwood charcoal(if you need a source for Brazilian hardwood charcoal,ping me)-

save the chicken for a Monday

Posted by: don at October 7, 2005 02:32 PM

You might want a potato to go with that-

get a 40 or 50 count Idaho(weighs about a pound) and put it in a deep ovenproof dish- cover it compleately with Kosher salt and bake about an hour and a half or until done-the salt will suck out every last but of moisture-

dig the potato out of the salt,split it opened and add sour cream,chopped applewood bacon,chopped chives and shredded chedder(or better yet Maytag bluecheese) enjoy

Posted by: don at October 7, 2005 02:45 PM

Almost forgot

http://www.titos-vodka.com/

with a couple of maytag blue -queen stuffed olives-

I'm done

Posted by: don at October 7, 2005 03:16 PM

In my limited experience, anything recipe that uses standard breadcrumbs is better when you use panko (Japanese breadcrumbs). The end result will be lighter and crispier.

Posted by: PapayaSF at October 7, 2005 06:00 PM

I'm exhausted just reading the recipe. Can't you come here and do it?

That woman on public television, Lidia Bastianich Pittsburgh Felidia St. Louis, says not to cook cheese because it is a finished product already and doesn't need heat. I dunno.

Can you come here and cook this? It sound really yummy. Cheers!!

Posted by: -Ed. at October 7, 2005 08:10 PM

Don't cook cheese???? What kind of insanity is she speaking?

Posted by: J.Kende at October 7, 2005 10:34 PM

To: jmaster

What happens in Colorado Springs...STAYS in Colorado Springs.

Posted by: fred at October 10, 2005 01:23 PM

Stephen,

Thanks for the great recipe - we had a great dinner last night.
Being German and prone to following instructions to a fault - I burned my first reduction, because the recipe didn't say "stir constantly"(one of my girlfriend's favorite stories) - I didn't see when you added the fresh basil, so I ended up adding it to the sauce just before covering the chicken with it. It worked out fine, but I'm still curious about your application of it.

Posted by: Harald at October 11, 2005 08:47 AM

Egads, last week did the Coq au Vin and this week this one. Both occassions garnered that dreamy "ummmm" look from The Woman (wish I could provoke that look; only appears with great food).

I was also confused on when the basil made its entrance, so it simmered with the sauce. And I had my oven at 350 because that's the limit for my "oven safe" skillet. Obviously I must upgrade.

Humor, law, alcohol, food...is this heaven?

Posted by: bob at October 12, 2005 12:29 AM



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